Frequently Asked Questions
Natural Paving Path Grade and Vehicle Grade pavers stop weeds from growing while still allowing even the heaviest rain to evenly soak through. This is achieved by the nonwoven strong geotextile that is attached to the base of the pavers. If a seed drops into a paver, it will not take hold, as no water is retained beneath the pebbles and roots cannot grow through the geotextile.
With Natural Paving Grass Grade, weeds are still able to grow as they would on a normal lawn.
Yes. If an irregular shaped pebble or stone chip is used, the Path and Vehicle Grade pavers can be laid on a slightly steeper slope compared to when filling with a regular shaped pebble. Each type of Natural Paving has a maximum recommended slope gradient that pavers can be installed on.
The steepest slope for Path Grade with a round pebble is 1 in 5, or 11o, and similarly for Vehicle Grade it is 1 in 6 or 9.5o. Grass Grade can be used for slopes of 8o.
The maximum recommended slopes, along with other parameters, can be found on the datasheets.
Natural Paving pavers can be laid on top of cracked concrete surfaces, depending on each unique situation. Some common examples of how concrete pavers can crack are:
- New concrete slabs shrink, and the installer may not have created appropriate crack starters to control the position and appearance of cracks.
- The foundation was not strong enough to carry such a heavy load.
- The foundation design may not have allowed for the wet strength of the foundation (e.g., clay has a very low wet strength) which may mean the base is simply not adequate, or a geotextile was not used between the soil and the subbase.
In situations like 1 and 2, specific design to cope with water drainage may allow Natural Paving to be laid over cracked concrete. For 3, the concrete must be removed, and the problems treated appropriately to provide a suitable starting base for Natural Paving. If you are unsure, you can ask one of our paving experts to advise on the best solution for your specific situation.
Natural Paving Path and Vehicle Grades are as practical as a hard paved surface for handling narrow wheels, high heels, walking sticks and vehicles. Natural Paving challenges all the traditional disadvantages of using pebbles by locking them in place, transforming the pavers into a stable, safe, and flat surface.
In comparison, concrete can crack when stressed or overloaded. Concrete is impermeable, so puddles form on the surface causing potential hazards.
River pebbles, decorative stones, or gravel chips measuring between 8mm and 15mm are used with Natural Paving. All pebbles/decorative stones should be washed, free of dust and be of a strong composition. For sloped surfaces, we recommend using an irregular shaped pebble or stone chip. This will help lock the pebbles in place.
If the pebbles are larger than the recommended size, the pebbles will not pack appropriately into the paver and could potentially result in an unstable surface. If the pebbles are too small, they are prone to movement within the honeycomb cells.
It is essential to use the right size pebbles to get the best performance from Natural Paving.
Yes – any competent DIY’er can install Natural Paving, provided the installation guidelines are followed.
Laying Natural Paving directly on grass is not recommended, as there may be insufficient drainage or poor quality soil structure underneath. Please refer to the installation guidelines for instructions on how to install our Grass Grade to achieve the best results.
Our Paving Calculator will calculate the materials required for your project. Once you have that information, we recommend contacting your local supplier either by phone or on their website to get an up-to-date cost of the materials required.
Natural Paving is exceptionally stable. It maintains a continuous surface with no cracks or puddling and copes well with ground movement and tree roots. When laid on inclines, it remains stable on up to 15° slopes if a crushed or irregular stone is used. Round pebbles are suitable for up to 5° slopes.
Little maintenance is required. Leaves and other debris can be lightly raked or swept off. In shady areas, the pebbles may need a moss and mildew spray, and any settling of the stones or foundation can be smoothed by raking or sweeping.
As Natural Paving is permeable, rain and surface water can pass directly through the geotextile attached beneath the paver, soaking evenly into the ground below. During high rainfall, excess water will drain away when correctly installed using adequate drainage.
It is not recommended to use crushed shell fill with Natural Paving. The shell has a weak structure, and with continuous traffic use, it can easily turn into powder. This results in the material compacting, as powder takes up less space than shell, leaving the top of the honeycomb structure exposed. It can also be washed away during strong wind or heavy rain.
In contrast, when you use the recommended 8mm to 14mm pebbles, the stones that overlay the grid are stabilised because they sit in what are effectively ‘nests’ formed by the gaps between the pebbles below. Those pebbles are held in place by the Natural Paving grid. This grid is covered in pebbles and is hidden. The resulting surface is a stable pathway, as the pebbles are nested like eggs in a crate. The surface looks completely natural but is stable enough for stiletto heels or the skinny tyres of a racing bicycle to traverse it without displacing the pebbles. With shells, you lose all the stabilising influence of the ‘nests’ once the shells disintegrate and compact into the grid. Even if you sprinkled fresh shells on top, it would be like sprinkling shells onto a hard, flat surface.
If the shell’s colour is what you want, then you could consider using white quartz pebbles which are smooth and nice to walk on, although expensive. You could also consider using lime chips that are the colour of shells. Lime chips are economical but not so comfortable to walk on in bare feet. This is economical but are not so comfortable to walk on in bare feet.
Yes, pavers can easily be cut to any shape with a handsaw or circular saw, alternatively tin snips or knife work well. Just make sure you abide by all safety regulations.